Croatia travel guide: where to go, and how to get between it all
Croatia is a long, thin country, and most of what visitors come for sits on its Adriatic coast and islands. The capital, Zagreb, is inland and works as a city break of its own. The one thing to know: the coast is far more crowded and expensive in July and August than in May, June or September, and getting between places takes longer than the map suggests.
The short answer
- First trip
- Fly into Dubrovnik or Split, spend three or four nights in each, and add a day on an island such as Hvar. Add Zagreb at the start or end if you want a city that isn't a resort.
- How long
- Five days covers one stretch of coast. A week is comfortable for Dubrovnik and Split with an island day. Ten to fourteen days lets you add Zadar, Zagreb and a national park.
- Best time to go
- May, June and September to early October, when it's warm enough to swim and the towns are workable. July and August are the busiest and hottest. Many island places close between November and Easter.
- Getting around
- Between the coastal cities, buses and ferries beat trains. Distances are long: Zagreb to Split is about five hours by bus and Split to Dubrovnik about four to five. Hiring a car makes sense for national parks and small towns.
- Money
- Croatia uses the euro. Cards are taken in most hotels, restaurants and shops, but carry some cash for small cafes, markets and boat trips.
- Book ahead
- Summer accommodation on the coast and islands, car-ferry and catamaran seats in July and August, and city walls or sunset slots in Dubrovnik in high season.
Best cities to visit in Croatia
Dubrovnik
A walled old town on the water at the far south. Beautiful and very busy in summer, best for a short stay and an early start. It suits first-time visitors and anyone who wants the walls and the sea in one place.
Give it 2 to 3 days
Split
A working port city built around a Roman palace, with the best transport links on the coast. It is the practical base for island ferries and day trips, and it suits people who want a lively city rather than a quiet resort.
Give it 2 to 4 days
Zagreb
The inland capital, with cafe terraces, museums and a walkable upper and lower town. It is less crowded and cheaper than the coast, and it suits a city break outside beach season.
Give it 2 to 3 days
Hvar
An island with a small harbor town, lavender fields and quiet coves. It is lively in summer and mostly shut in winter, so it suits a beach and nightlife week rather than a short sightseeing trip.
Give it 2 to 4 days
Zadar
A smaller coastal town with a Roman and medieval old town, a well-known sea organ and a short ride to national parks and islands. It suits people who want the coast with fewer crowds.
Give it 1 to 3 days
Beyond the cities
Plitvice Lakes National Park
Sixteen terraced lakes joined by waterfalls and wooden walkways, inland between Zagreb and Zadar. It is about two hours from either by road, and it works as a day trip with an early start or a night nearby.
Istria
The peninsula in the northwest, with hill towns such as Motovun, olive groves and Roman remains in Pula. It is best by car, and it fits a trip that starts in Zagreb or Trieste.
Korčula and Mljet
Quieter islands off the southern coast, reached by ferry from Split, Dubrovnik or the Pelješac peninsula. Korčula has a walled old town and Mljet has a national park with saltwater lakes.
Krka National Park
Waterfalls near the town of Šibenik, about an hour from Split. It is an easy half day by car, tour or bus.
Kornati islands
A bare, rocky archipelago off Zadar and Šibenik, usually seen on a boat day from either. Go in summer when boats run daily.
Croatia itineraries
- Five days: Split and Hvar
Fly into Split and spend two nights there, seeing the palace and the waterfront. Take a morning catamaran to Hvar for two nights, then return to Split for the flight home. It keeps the moves short.
- Seven days: Split to Dubrovnik
Start in Split for three nights, with one day on an island or at Krka. Take the bus south, about four to five hours, and spend three nights in Dubrovnik. Fly out from there.
- Ten days: Zagreb, Plitvice, Zadar, Split, Dubrovnik
Two nights in Zagreb, then a rented car or bus to Plitvice for a morning walk before reaching Zadar for two nights. Continue to Split for three nights, then Dubrovnik for three. This is a one-way trip, so check the extra fee for returning a car in a different place.
- Fourteen days: the whole coast
Add Hvar and either Korčula or Istria to the ten-day route, giving each three or four nights. Keep Zagreb at the start for a gentle arrival. Do not add more stops than that: the distances are the limit, not the sights.
Best time to visit Croatia
For the coast, May, June, September and early October are the easiest months. The sea is swimmable from about late May, the days are long, and the towns are lively without July and August crowds. Late September is often the best balance of warm water and calm streets.
July and August are hot and busy, with the highest prices and fullest ferries. Spring and late autumn are fine for city sightseeing, though many island restaurants and hotels close for the winter. Zagreb is a good choice in December, when it holds a large Advent market, and in spring.
How to get around Croatia
- BusesLong-distance buses are the main way along the coast and run often between Zagreb, Zadar, Split and Dubrovnik. Book seats online in summer. The Dubrovnik route crosses short stretches of Bosnia and Herzegovina, so carry a passport.
- Ferries and catamaransJadrolinija is the national operator, with car ferries and passenger catamarans to the islands. In July and August book ahead, especially for cars, and be at the port early. Some catamaran tickets can be bought online up to a month ahead.
- TrainsHZPP runs the national network, centered on Zagreb. The line to Split takes about eight hours and has a compulsory seat reservation, so it is a slow choice. There is no rail service to Dubrovnik. Interrail and Eurail passes are valid on HZPP.
- FlightsZagreb, Split, Dubrovnik and Zadar all have airports. Internal flights between Zagreb and the coast can save hours if you are short of time. Many low-cost airlines fly to the coast in summer.
- Hiring a carUseful for Istria, Plitvice and small coastal towns, less so for the old towns, which are largely pedestrian. Parking is limited and costly in summer. Motorways are tolled.
What to book before you go
These are the ones that sell out across Croatia. Each city guide has its own list.
- Accommodation on the coast and islands2 to 4 months ahead for July and August
The best-placed stays in Dubrovnik, Split and Hvar sell out first, and prices climb sharply close to the date.
- Car ferries and fast catamarans2 to 4 weeks ahead in summer
Popular island routes fill, and a missed boat can cost a day. Foot passengers can often buy on the day outside peak season.
- Dubrovnik city walls and busy-hour slotsA few days to a week ahead in high season
Cruise ships dock almost daily from May to September, and sunset and early slots are the first to go.
- Plitvice Lakes entryA few days ahead in summer
Entry is timed in busy months, and you want the early slots before the walkways fill.
Money, tipping and practical things
- CurrencyThe euro, since 1 January 2023. Prices in older guidebooks may still be in kuna.
- Cards and cashVisa and Mastercard are widely taken in hotels, restaurants and shops. Carry some cash for small cafes, markets, parking and boat trips, especially on the islands.
- TippingNot required, but common. Round up the bill in a cafe, and leave about 10 percent in a restaurant if service was good.
- Tourist taxesA tourist tax is charged per person per night, on top of the room price. The national government sets a range and each town sets its own rate within it, with lower rates in winter and reductions or exemptions for children. Ask whether it is included when you book.
- EntryNon-EU visitors are registered at the border by the EU's Entry/Exit System. Whether you need a visa, and an ETIAS travel authorization once it starts, depends on your passport: check the EU's official site, travel-europe.europa.eu, before you book.
- PlugsType C and F sockets, 230 volts. Most UK and US travelers need an adapter, and US devices need to accept 230 volts.
What to skip in Croatia
- Dubrovnik at midday in high season
The old town is at its most crowded when cruise passengers arrive. Go early in the morning or in the evening, and use the middle of the day for the beach or a boat trip.
- Trying to see the whole coast in a week
Distances are long and transfers eat days. Pick one stretch, such as Split and its islands or Dubrovnik and its islands, and do it well.
- Island hopping in July and August without reservations
Ferries and catamarans fill, and the harbor towns are at their busiest. Book ahead, or travel in June or September instead.
- Restaurants with picture menus on the main harbor front
They are aimed at passing visitors. Walk two streets back, or look for places with a short menu in Croatian first.
Croatia: questions people ask
How many days do you need in Croatia?
Five days is enough for one stretch of coast, such as Split and Hvar. A week lets you add Dubrovnik. Ten days covers Zagreb, Plitvice, Zadar, Split and Dubrovnik at a steady pace.
What is the best time to visit Croatia?
May, June, September and early October. The sea is warm enough for swimming from about late May and the towns are less crowded than in July and August. Zagreb is good in spring and in December.
What are the best places to visit in Croatia?
Dubrovnik, Split, Zagreb, Hvar and Zadar are the main cities and islands. Plitvice Lakes, Krka, Istria and the southern islands of Korčula and Mljet are the best additions.
Is Croatia expensive?
It is cheaper than France or Italy outside summer but has become pricey on the coast in July and August, especially in Dubrovnik and Hvar. Zagreb and inland towns cost less. Visiting in shoulder season lowers hotel prices a lot.
How do you get around Croatia without a car?
By bus along the coast, which is the main option, and by ferry or catamaran to the islands. Trains are slow and do not reach Dubrovnik. You can also fly between Zagreb and the coast to save time.
Does Croatia use the euro?
Yes, since 1 January 2023. Cards are widely accepted, but keep some cash for small purchases.
Is Croatia worth visiting for a short city break?
Yes, if you pick one city and keep it simple. Dubrovnik and Split suit three or four days, and Zagreb suits a long weekend. Avoid trying to cover more than one stretch of coast.
Do I need to book Croatian ferries in advance?
In July and August, yes, especially if you are taking a car. Outside peak season, foot passengers can usually buy a ticket at the port on the day.