Things to do in Hvar: the old town, the Pakleni islands and Stari Grad
Hvar is a long island with two very different ends: Hvar town, small, handsome and loud in summer, and Stari Grad and Jelsa, quieter and about half an hour away by road. Three days is enough for the town, the islands offshore and the plain. The one thing to know: everything arrives by sea, and ferries are fewer outside summer.
The short answer
- First trip
- Base yourself in Hvar town for two nights, take a boat to the Pakleni islands, then spend a day in Stari Grad and the plain behind it.
- Where to stay
- Hvar town for sights and evenings, Stari Grad or Jelsa for a quieter base. The full guide compares the areas.
- How many days
- Two days covers Hvar town and the islands. Three or four adds Stari Grad, Jelsa and the beaches.
- Best time to go
- June and September for warm sea and manageable crowds. July and August are hot, busy and loud. Many places close in winter.
- Book ahead
- Catamaran seats and car-ferry space in summer, and dinner at the better restaurants.
- From Split
- A catamaran to Hvar town takes about an hour. The car ferry to Stari Grad takes about two hours.
Where to stay in Hvar, in brief
Hvar town, around the main square
sights and evenings on foot
Stone lanes between the square, the harbor and the fortress. Everything is close, and the catch is noise from bars on summer nights.
Hvar town, the coast path east and west
quiet beside the sea
Hotels and guesthouses along the waterfront path, 10 to 20 minutes on foot from the square. Calmer at night, with swimming steps nearby.
Stari Grad
a slower, older town
A Greek-founded port on a long inlet, about 20 minutes by road from Hvar town. Quiet evenings, a ferry from Split, and the plain on its doorstep.
Jelsa
family beaches and calm
A small harbor town on the island's north coast, further east again. Pine-backed beaches and easy evenings, but you need a bus or car for Hvar town.
Things to do in Hvar
Hvar town and its main square
One of the largest squares on the Dalmatian coast, with the cathedral of St Stephen at one end and the harbor at the other. Walk it early or after dark, when the day crowds have gone.
Spanjola fortress
The fortress above the town, reached by a steep path and steps. Go in the morning for the view over the harbor and the islands, and take water.
The Arsenal and the old theater
A Venetian arsenal on the harbor with a theater built into its upper floor in the early 17th century. Look at the façade, and check opening hours for the interior.
Franciscan monastery
A quiet cloister at the edge of town beside the water, with a small museum. A calm half hour away from the Riva.
Pakleni islands
A chain of small wooded islands just off the town, with pebble coves and restaurants. Water taxis leave from the harbor all day in season.
Boats run without booking, but book a table on the islands in July and August.
Stari Grad old town
A Greek-founded harbor town of narrow lanes and stone houses. Walk to the Tvrdalj, the 16th-century fortified house of the poet Petar Hektorović, with its fish pond and garden.
Stari Grad Plain
A Greek-era field system behind Stari Grad that is still farmed, listed by UNESCO. Walk or cycle the lanes between the dry-stone walls, with vines and olive trees.
Lavender villages
Velo Grablje, Brusje and the hill villages above Hvar town grow lavender, which flowers around June. You need a car, a taxi or a tour to reach them.
Beaches on the south and east coast
Most beaches on the island are pebble or rock coves. Some of the better ones are over the hill from Hvar town and reached by road or boat, so check the access before you set out.
Jelsa and Vrboska
Two small harbor towns on the north coast. Jelsa has a tree-lined waterfront and pine beaches, and Vrboska is a short, quiet stop with a narrow inlet.
What to book before you go
These sell out. Most of the rest of Hvar can be decided on the day.
Every tour and ticket in Hvar, and which to pick- Catamaran or car ferry from SplitA week or more ahead in July and August
Fast boats to Hvar town fill, and the car ferry to Stari Grad fills for cars on summer weekends.
- Dinner at the better restaurants1 to 2 weeks ahead in peak season
Hvar town has few tables for the number of visitors, and the well-known places fill early.
- Peka, if you want itA day ahead
Meat or octopus cooked under an iron bell takes hours, and most places need notice.
What to skip in Hvar
- Hvar town on a peak-season weekend, if you want calm
July and August nights are loud, and the bars around the square run late. Stay in Stari Grad or Jelsa, or choose a quieter shoulder-season week.
- Restaurants on the Riva with photo menus
The view is the product. Eat a few lanes back, where menus are shorter and prices lower.
- Hvar as a day trip from Split in July or August
The boat times leave you a short afternoon in a crowded town. Stay a night, or go in June or September.
Best time to visit Hvar
June and September are the best months: the sea is warm, the boats run often and the town is busy but workable. Lavender flowers around June, and the harvest and wine season starts in September.
July and August are hot, crowded and the most expensive. From late October to April much of Hvar town closes, ferries thin out and the island is very quiet. Check opening dates before you plan a winter trip.
- From Split to Hvar townCatamarans leave Split's port for Hvar town in about 50 to 65 minutes, most often in summer. Check the timetable the day before, since services change by season.
- From Split to Stari GradThe car ferry takes about two hours and runs several times a day in summer. A bus connects the port with Hvar town.
- Between Stari Grad and Hvar townBuses run a few times a day and take about 20 minutes. Check the times on the day, since there are gaps.
- Around Hvar townOn foot. The old town, harbor, fortress and the coast path to the nearby beaches are all walkable. Water taxis cover the Pakleni islands.
Hvar in three days
- Day 1
Arrive at Hvar town by catamaran. Walk the main square and the harbor, climb to the Spanjola fortress before dusk, and eat in a konoba off the square.
- Day 2
Take a water taxi to the Pakleni islands for a swim and lunch. Return in the late afternoon and walk the coast path.
- Day 3
Bus or drive to Stari Grad for the old town and the Tvrdalj. Walk a loop on the plain, then continue to Jelsa or take the ferry back to Split.
Day trips from Hvar
- Pakleni islandsA short boat ride from the harbor, with coves and tavernas. Take water taxis out and back, and agree the return time.
- Stari Grad and the plainAbout 20 minutes by bus or car. Spend a morning in the town and an afternoon walking or cycling between the stone walls.
- Jelsa and VrboskaTwo harbor towns on the north coast, reached by bus or car. Good for a swim and a long lunch.
Hvar: questions people ask
How many days do you need in Hvar?
Two days covers Hvar town and the Pakleni islands. Three or four lets you add Stari Grad, the plain and Jelsa.
Is Hvar worth visiting?
Yes, if you like a small stone town on the sea with islands offshore. It is crowded and loud in July and August, and quietest and cheapest outside summer.
How do you get to Hvar from Split?
Take a catamaran to Hvar town, about an hour, or the car ferry to Stari Grad, about two hours. Book ahead in summer.
What is the best time to visit Hvar?
June and September give warm sea and manageable crowds. July and August are hotter and busier. Winter is quiet and many places close.
Is Hvar a party island?
Hvar town has a reputation for late summer nights, and the bars near the square are loud. Stari Grad and Jelsa are much quieter.
Can you do Hvar as a day trip from Split?
You can, but it is a short, crowded day in peak season. One night gives you the evening and the morning.
Do you need a car on Hvar?
Not for Hvar town and the Pakleni islands. For the plain, the lavender villages and beaches over the hill, a car, scooter or taxi helps.