Split travel guide: Diocletian's palace, the Riva and Marjan hill
Split is a working port with a Roman palace at its center, and people still live inside the walls. Two days is enough for the palace, the Riva and Marjan hill. The one thing to know: it is also the ferry hub for the islands, so most visitors use it as a base for Hvar, Brač or Vis.
The short answer
- First trip
- Stay inside or beside Diocletian's Palace. Spend a day in the palace and Riva, then add Marjan and one island or day trip.
- Where to stay
- The palace and Veli Varoš for atmosphere, Bačvice for the beach, Marjan for quiet.
- How many days
- Two days for the city, three or four if you add islands or a day trip.
- Best time to go
- May, June, September and early October. July and August are hot and busy.
- Book ahead
- Ferries and catamarans in summer, and a table at the better restaurants.
- From the airport
- The airport bus runs to the main bus station near the port in about 30 to 40 minutes. A taxi is quicker.
Where to stay in Split, in brief
Diocletian's Palace
atmosphere on foot
Inside the Roman walls, with stone lanes and squares at the door. Every sight is close. The catch is evening noise from bars, so check the room's position.
Veli Varoš
quiet old streets
A former fishermen's quarter west of the palace, about five minutes away. Narrow lanes, stairs and small restaurants, with less foot traffic.
Bačvice
a city beach
East of the center, with a sandy beach and a busy evening scene. A 15 to 20 minute walk to the palace, and cheaper than the old town.
Marjan and Meje
a calm base
Along the hill on the west side, near forest paths and sea swimming. Residential and relaxed, around 20 minutes on foot to the Riva.
Near the ferry port
early boats
Convenient if you leave on an early ferry. The area is functional more than charming, so use it for one night rather than your whole stay.
Things to do in Split
Diocletian's Palace
A Roman emperor's retirement palace, now a living town. Wander the lanes, the cellars and the Peristyle square without a plan.
Palace cellars
The vaulted rooms under the palace, among the best-preserved parts of the complex. A short visit, and cool in summer.
Cathedral of St Domnius and bell tower
The cathedral was built as the emperor's mausoleum. Climb the tower for the view over the roofs and the harbor.
The Riva
The palm-lined seafront promenade, best in the evening. Walk it, then have a coffee and watch the ferries.
Marjan hill
A forested park on the western headland, with viewpoints and swimming spots. Walk up the steps from Veli Varoš for the best view of the city.
Bačvice beach
A sandy city beach with shallow water, good for families. Busy in July and August.
Gregory of Nin and Pazar market
The bronze statue outside the Golden Gate is a local tradition. The Pazar market beside the walls is worth a morning for fruit and cheese.
Meštrović Gallery
The sculptor's former home and studio on the Marjan side, with a quiet garden. A good rainy-day visit.
Island day trip to Hvar or Brač
Ferries and catamarans run from the Split port. Check the timetable the day before, since services change by season.
Book ahead in July and August.
What to book before you go
These sell out. Most of the rest of Split can be decided on the day.
Every tour and ticket in Split, and which to pick- Island ferries and catamaransA week or more ahead in July and August
Popular sailings fill, especially for cars and for the fast boats to Hvar.
- A table at the best restaurants1 to 2 weeks ahead in peak season
The small, well-known places in the palace and the fish restaurants fill at weekends.
- Krka or Plitvice day toursA few days ahead in summer
Tours and entry slots are limited at the national parks.
What to skip in Split
- Restaurants on the Riva with photo menus
The view is fine for a drink. Eat on the lanes behind or a short walk away, where prices are lower.
- Midday in the palace in July and August
The stone lanes are hot and packed. Go early in the morning or after 18:00.
- A one-day city rush before an island ferry
Give Split a night. The palace is at its best in the evening, when the groups leave.
Best time to visit Split
May, June, September and early October are the best months. The sea is warm from June, the palace is walkable and the island ferries run well.
July and August are hot, busy and expensive. Winter is mild and quiet, but some restaurants close and fewer ferries run.
- From Split airportThe airport bus runs to the main bus station beside the port in about 30 to 40 minutes. A taxi is faster and costs more.
- On footThe palace, the Riva, the port and Veli Varoš are all within a 10 to 15 minute walk of each other.
- By ferryBoats leave from the main port to the central Dalmatian islands. Buy tickets online in summer or at the port.
- By bus or taxiCity buses reach Bačvice, Marjan and the outer districts. Taxis are useful for luggage and at night.
Split in three days
- Day 1
Explore Diocletian's Palace early, the cathedral and the cellars. Walk the Riva in the evening and eat in the old town.
- Day 2
Climb Marjan in the morning, then swim at Bačvice. Visit the Pazar market and the Meštrović Gallery.
- Day 3
Take a ferry day trip to Hvar or Brač, or go to Trogir or Krka National Park.
Day trips from Split
- TrogirA small walled island town about 30 minutes by bus or car. A good half-day with a waterfront lunch.
- HvarA fast ferry from Split takes about an hour. Hvar town is lively, and quieter Stari Grad is nearby.
- Krka National ParkWaterfalls and swimming areas, about an hour by road. Check the current rules on swimming at the falls.
- SalonaThe Roman ruins at Solin, a few kilometers from Split by local bus. Short and uncrowded.
Split: questions people ask
How many days do you need in Split?
Two days covers the palace, the Riva and Marjan. Three or four lets you add an island or a day trip to Trogir or Krka.
Is Split worth visiting?
Yes. It has a Roman palace people still live in, good food and the best ferry links on the coast. Spend at least one night.
What is the best time to visit Split?
May, June, September and early October give warm weather and manageable crowds. July and August are hotter and busier.
Where is the best area to stay in Split?
Inside or beside Diocletian's Palace for atmosphere, Veli Varoš for quiet, Bačvice for the beach.
Is Split better than Dubrovnik?
They suit different trips. Split is a living city with island links. Dubrovnik is a walled old town and more crowded.
Can you visit Split on a day trip?
You can, but it is a rush. One night lets you see the palace in the evening and the morning.