Zagreb travel guide: the Upper Town, the Lower Town and the cafes
Zagreb is Croatia's capital, a cafe city of two halves: the hilltop Upper Town and the flat Lower Town with its parks and squares. Two days is the right length. The one thing to know: it is not a beach stop, so go for the museums, the markets and the food, and in December for the Advent fair.
The short answer
- First trip
- Stay in the Lower Town. Walk the Upper Town, visit Dolac market and a museum, and sit in a cafe on Tkalčićeva.
- Where to stay
- The Lower Town for access and value, the Upper Town for atmosphere, Tkalčićeva for nightlife.
- How many days
- Two days for the city, three if you add a day trip.
- Best time to go
- May to June and September for outdoor cafes. December for the Advent market.
- Book ahead
- A table at a Michelin-listed restaurant, and December hotels.
- From the airport
- The airport bus runs to the main bus station in about 30 minutes. A taxi is quicker.
Where to stay in Zagreb, in brief
Lower Town (Donji Grad)
first-time visitors
Flat streets, parks and museums between Ban Jelačić Square and the main station. Good transport and a wide range of rooms and prices.
Upper Town (Gornji Grad and Kaptol)
atmosphere and quiet
Medieval lanes on the hill, with the cathedral and Lotrščak Tower close by. Beautiful and calm at night, but steep, and rooms are limited.
Tkalčićeva and Ban Jelačić Square
cafes and nightlife
The street of bars and restaurants beside Dolac market. Lively until late, so ask about noise.
Jarun and Maksimir
parks and lakes
Outer districts with a lake and a large park. They suit a longer stay or a focus on walking and running.
Things to do in Zagreb
Ban Jelačić Square
The main square and meeting point, with trams crossing it. Use it as the start of any walk.
Dolac market
The city's main open-air produce market, just above the square. Go in the morning for cheese, honey, fruit and flowers.
Zagreb Cathedral
The two-spired Gothic cathedral on Kaptol. Check opening hours and services before you go.
Upper Town and Lotrščak Tower
Walk up through the old gate or take the short funicular. The tower and the terraces nearby have views over the roofs.
St Mark's Church
The church with the tiled roof on St Mark's Square. The roof is best seen from outside.
Museum of Broken Relationships
A small museum of personal objects and stories from ended relationships. Short, odd and popular.
Mirogoj Cemetery
A cemetery with arcades and domes, treated as a park by locals. Take the tram or bus out and allow an hour.
Maksimir Park
A landscaped park on the east side, with lakes and paths. Good for a slow afternoon in spring or autumn.
Zagreb Advent
A winter festival with food stalls and music on the squares of the center. Dress warmly and go on a weekday.
Book hotels months ahead for December.
What to book before you go
These sell out. Most of the rest of Zagreb can be decided on the day.
Every tour and ticket in Zagreb, and which to pick- A table at a Michelin-listed restaurant1 to 2 weeks ahead
The starred and Bib Gourmand places are small and fill at weekends.
- Hotels for AdventSeveral months ahead for December
The Christmas market fills the city, and rooms in the center sell out.
- Plitvice Lakes day toursA few days ahead in summer
Tours and entry slots are limited, and a day trip from Zagreb is long.
What to skip in Zagreb
- Eating on the busiest stretch of Tkalčićeva
The setting is good for a drink. For dinner, walk to the side streets or the Lower Town for better value.
- A rushed one-day visit to Plitvice from Zagreb
It is about two hours each way. Stay a night near the park if you can.
- Zagreb in August
Some restaurants and small museums close, and the city empties. Pick another month.
Best time to visit Zagreb
Late spring and early autumn are the best times: May, June and September. The cafe terraces are open, the parks are green and it is warm without being hot.
December brings the Advent fair, which is the reason many people come in the cold. Winter days are short and can be below freezing. August is hot and some places close.
- From Zagreb airportThe airport bus runs to the main bus station in about 30 minutes. A taxi takes around 20 to 30 minutes.
- On footThe Lower Town, Ban Jelačić Square and the Upper Town are all within a 15 to 20 minute walk of each other.
- By tramTrams cover the whole city and run into the night on main lines. Buy a ticket at a kiosk or by app.
- By trainThe main station is in the Lower Town. Trains run to Ljubljana, Vienna and Budapest, with times that depend on the line.
Zagreb in three days
- Day 1
Start at Ban Jelačić Square and Dolac market, then walk up to the Upper Town and the cathedral. Have dinner near Tkalčićeva.
- Day 2
Choose a museum, then walk the Lower Town's parks. In the afternoon, visit Mirogoj or Maksimir.
- Day 3
Take a day trip to Samobor, the Zagorje castles or Plitvice Lakes.
Day trips from Zagreb
- SamoborA small town about 30 minutes west, known for cream cake and a hill walk. Easy by bus.
- Plitvice Lakes National ParkAbout two hours by road each way. Boardwalks past waterfalls and lakes, best with an early start.
- Trakošćan and the Zagorje castlesA day by car through the hills north of Zagreb, with castles and wine cellars on the way.
- VaraždinA baroque town about an hour and a half north, with a compact center and a fortress.
Zagreb: questions people ask
How many days do you need in Zagreb?
Two days covers the Upper Town, Dolac, a museum or two and the cafes. Three lets you add a day trip to Samobor or Plitvice.
Is Zagreb worth visiting?
Yes, especially for the food, cafes and museums, and for the Advent fair. It is not a beach city, so combine it with the coast.
What is the best time to visit Zagreb?
May, June and September for terraces and parks. December for the Advent market.
Where is the best area to stay in Zagreb?
The Lower Town for access, the Upper Town for atmosphere, and Tkalčićeva if you want nightlife.
Is Zagreb expensive?
It is cheaper than the Dalmatian coast, and meals and rooms cost less than in Dubrovnik or Split.
Can you visit Zagreb as a day trip?
From the coast it is a long way, but from Ljubljana or Vienna it works. Staying one night gives you the evening cafes.