Where to stay in Zagreb
Zagreb is a small capital in two halves: the hilltop Upper Town of cobbled lanes and churches, and the flat Lower Town of parks, museums and cafes below it. For a first visit, stay in the Lower Town or around Ban Jelačić Square, where the sights, the trams and the restaurants are all within a short walk. Choose the Upper Town for quiet evenings and atmosphere, and Tkalčićeva if you want cafes and bars at the door. The station area is cheap and handy for trains, but it is the plainest part of the center.
The short answer
- First trip
- The Lower Town, or around Ban Jelačić Square if you want to be in the middle.
- Couples
- The Upper Town for old lanes and quiet nights, or the Lower Town for parks and museums.
- Families
- The Lower Town: flat streets, parks and trams. Maksimir if the park and zoo are the plan.
- Tight budget
- The station area or Trešnjevka, with a tram into the center.
- Food and evenings
- Tkalčićeva for cafes and bars. Ask for a room on the quiet side.
How we judge an area of Zagreb: walking time to the sights, noise at night, transport, and price. Nothing on this page is paid for, and the hotels we choose will say who chose them and when they last stayed.
Zagreb's neighborhoods, side by side
| Area | Best for | At night | Ban Jelačić Square | Zagreb Cathedral | Main railway station | Getting around | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lower Town (Donji Grad) | First visits, parks and museums | Quiet on side streets | 10 min | 10 min | 10 min | Trams; station nearby | €€ |
| Around Ban Jelačić Square | Everything on foot | Lively until late on weekends | 5 min | 5 min | 15 min | Trams, all lines | €€€ |
| Upper Town (Gornji Grad) | Couples, calm nights | Very quiet | 5 min | 10 min | 20 min | Funicular; short walk to trams | €€€ |
| Tkalčićeva | Food, evenings | Loud, especially Fri and Sat | 5 min | 5 min | 20 min | Trams at the square; funicular | €€€ |
| Station area (Glavni kolodvor) | Trains, lower price | Quiet; busier near the station | 15 min | 15 min | 5 min | Station; trams | € |
| Trešnjevka | Value, local life | Quiet | 30 min | 35 min | 30 min | Trams along Ilica and Savska | € |
| Maksimir | Parks, long stays | Very quiet | 45 min | 40 min | 50 min | Trams on Maksimirska | €€ |
Walking times run from the middle of each area: the straight line plus a third for real streets, at an easy pace, rounded to five minutes. The Upper Town is on a hill, so the way up is slower than the figure suggests. Price is our read of a standard double in the same week, from € (cheapest) to €€€€ (dearest), until booking-site prices replace it.
Where the neighborhoods are
The Lower Town, for a first visit
The flat grid of parks, museums and cafes between Ban Jelačić Square and the station, with the widest choice of rooms.
The Lower Town is the nineteenth-century city laid out below the hill, with a string of green squares known as the Green Horseshoe, the Art Pavilion, the Mimara and Archaeological museums and the Croatian National Theatre. Ban Jelačić Square is five to fifteen minutes away on foot, the station about ten, and trams run along the edges.
It is easy and flat, and it has the most hotels and apartments at every price. The main avenues are busy with trams in the day, but most side streets are calm at night. Nothing here is dramatic: the pleasure is cafes under plane trees and museums close together, with the Upper Town a short walk up.
Good for
- A first trip of two to four nights
- Parks, museums and cafes on foot
- Trams and the station close by
Think twice if
- You want medieval lanes at your door
- You want bars on your street
- Your room faces a main tram avenue
Staying in Lower Town (Donji Grad): nearby sights, food and getting around
Around Ban Jelačić Square, for the middle of everything
The main square and its pedestrian streets, with Dolac market, the cathedral and the funicular close, and more people than anywhere else.
Ban Jelačić Square is where the Upper and Lower towns meet. Trams cross it, the pedestrian streets of Ilica and Bogovićeva start here, Dolac market is behind it, and the cathedral is a five-minute walk. Almost every sight in the center is within fifteen minutes on foot.
It is the most convenient base and among the dearest. The square itself is busy with meetings and events, and Advent crowds fill it in December. Streets directly off the square can be loud on weekend evenings, so ask for a room on an upper floor or a courtyard side.
Good for
- Walking everywhere, from the cathedral to the museums
- Trams and the market at your door
- A short stay when you want to save time
Think twice if
- You want quiet at weekends
- You want the best price
- You arrive in December and sleep lightly
Staying in Around Ban Jelačić Square: nearby sights, food and getting around
The Upper Town, for old lanes and quiet nights
Cobbled lanes, St Mark's Church and gas lamps on the hill, quiet after dark, with few rooms and a climb or a funicular to get home.
Gornji Grad is the medieval hilltop town, with St Mark's Church and its tiled roof, the Lotrščak Tower, the Stone Gate and several small museums. The short funicular from Tomićeva street runs up from the bottom of the hill, and stairs from Ban Jelačić Square take a few minutes.
It is calm at night and has very few hotels, so you will mainly find guesthouses and apartments. There are few shops and few places to eat late, so you walk down for dinner. The cobbles and steps are hard with a heavy suitcase or a wheelchair, and taxis cannot reach every door.
Good for
- Old streets with few crowds in the evening
- Couples after a calm base
- St Mark's Church and the tower at your door
Think twice if
- Steps and cobbles are hard for you
- You want shops and restaurants at your door
- You arrive late with heavy luggage
Staying in Upper Town (Gornji Grad): nearby sights, food and getting around
Tkalčićeva, for cafes and bars
A pedestrian street of terraces beneath the Upper Town, five minutes from the square and loud on warm evenings.
Tkalčićeva runs along the line of an old stream that was built over, with low houses and a long row of cafes, bars and restaurants. It sits between the Upper Town and Dolac market, five to ten minutes from Ban Jelačić Square, and the funicular is at the south end.
It is the liveliest street in the center. Terraces are full from spring to autumn, and music and voices carry into the night, particularly on Friday and Saturday. Rooms here are few, and the quiet ones face the back or the hill. Read recent reviews for noise before you book.
Good for
- Cafes and bars outside the door
- A short walk to the Upper Town and the market
- Evenings out without a taxi
Think twice if
- You want quiet at weekends
- You are traveling with young children
- Your room faces the street
Staying in Tkalčićeva: nearby sights, food and getting around
The station area, for trains and a lower price
Hotels and hostels around Tomislav Square and the main station, ten minutes from the center, plain and cheaper.
The main railway station faces Tomislav Square and the park at the south end of the Green Horseshoe. Trains to the coast, Vienna and Budapest leave here, and trams connect to the center. Ban Jelačić Square is about fifteen minutes on foot through the park and the Lower Town.
The area is practical rather than pretty, with a good number of hotels and hostels and lower prices than in the center. The streets around the station are busier after dark, so choose a hotel on a main street or in the park, and read recent reviews for the surroundings.
Good for
- An early train or a late arrival
- A lower price within walking distance
- Trams and the park close by
Think twice if
- You want historic streets at the door
- You prefer cafes and bars outside
- You dislike quiet streets that feel empty at night
Staying in Station area (Glavni kolodvor): nearby sights, food and getting around
Trešnjevka, for a local feel and lower prices
A residential district west of the center with a daily market, independent cafes and few sights, twenty-five minutes' walk from the square.
Trešnjevka lies west of the center, beyond Ilica. Its Trešnjevac market is busy every morning, and there are independent cafes, bakeries and small restaurants. Trams along Ilica and Savska reach Ban Jelačić Square in about ten minutes.
It is where people live rather than visit, with apartments rather than hotels and prices well below the center. There are few sights, and streets are plain in places. You will use the tram for most evenings out.
Good for
- Lower prices, with the tram to the center
- A neighborhood market and cafes
- Longer stays and apartments
Think twice if
- You want to walk to the sights
- You want a hotel with a lobby
- You prefer polished streets
Staying in Trešnjevka: nearby sights, food and getting around
Maksimir, for the park and a quiet stay
A leafy district by Zagreb's largest park and the zoo, two and a half kilometers from the center by tram.
Maksimir is the area around Maksimir Park, the city's oldest public park, with lakes, woodland paths and the zoo. Trams run along Maksimirska to Ban Jelačić Square in about fifteen minutes. The stadium and the large football grounds are nearby.
It is residential and green and has a good number of apartments, but few hotels and few places to eat in the evening. The center is a tram ride, not a walk, so it suits a longer stay or a trip built around walking and running. Match days bring traffic and noise.
Good for
- Parks, lakes and the zoo
- Quiet nights and a calm base for a longer stay
- Families who want green space
Think twice if
- You want to walk to the sights
- You want restaurants and bars outside
- You arrive on a match day
Where not to stay in Zagreb, and what to do instead
Every booking site lists these places to stay in Zagreb. We would skip them, or at least choose with care. Nobody pays a commission on a warning.
- A room on Tkalčićeva facing the street, if you want sleep
The terraces stay full into the night. Ask for a back or high room, or stay in the Lower Town.
- A room on a tram avenue, because it looked central
Trams start early and run late on the main avenues. Choose a side street and check the room's side in reviews.
- The streets right behind the station, for a long stay
They are handy for trains and plain after dark. Stay closer to the park and Tomislav Square, or in the Lower Town.
- A hotel out near the airport
The price looks good, but the airport is a 30-minute bus ride from the center. The center is small: stay in it.
- An Upper Town apartment with a heavy suitcase
Cobbles and steps do not suit wheels. Check how you reach the door, or stay in the Lower Town.
- A December stay booked late
The Advent fair fills rooms and raises prices. Book early, and mid-week nights are calmer and cheaper.
Which neighborhood suits you
First time in Zagreb
The Lower Town or Ban Jelačić Square.
Couples
The Upper Town or the Lower Town.
Families with children
The Lower Town, or Maksimir for the park and zoo.
A tight budget
Food
Tkalčićeva for cafes, the square for Dolac market.
Nightlife
Tkalčićeva; ask for a back room.
Peace and quiet
The Upper Town or Maksimir.
A late arrival or early train
The station area, ten minutes from the platforms.
A longer stay
Trešnjevka or Maksimir, with a tram into town.
Before you book a room in Zagreb
The practical things that decide whether a good hotel in Zagreb makes a good stay.
- The tourist taxZagreb charges a tourist tax per person per night, at about 1.59 euros from April to September and about 1.86 euros from October to March, according to the rates we found. It is often left out of online prices and paid at the hotel. Reductions or exemptions for children vary, so check the final price and ask how it is collected.
- From Franjo Tuđman AirportThe Pleso Prijevoz shuttle bus runs to the main bus station every 30 minutes until about 20:00, then to match arrivals, in around 30 to 40 minutes. The fare was about 9 euros one way when we checked, and tickets can be bought online or from the driver. A taxi is quicker door to door and costs more; use the airport's official taxi desk or an app.
- TramsTrams cover the whole center and are cheap. A ticket is bought from kiosks or the driver, and the Zagreb Card includes public transport. Trams run later on weekends, and a few night lines replace them after midnight.
- MoneyCroatia uses the euro. Cards are widely accepted, but small cafes and market stalls prefer cash.
- Hills, steps and cobblesThe Upper Town is steep and cobbled, and some older Lower Town buildings have narrow lifts or none. Check the floor and the lift before you book.
- Safety at nightZagreb is generally safe. Keep a bag zipped in busy places such as Ban Jelačić Square and the markets, and take a taxi or tram after dark through the quieter streets near the station.
- DecemberThe Advent fair brings crowds and higher prices from late November to early January. Book early, and expect noise on and around Tkalčićeva.
Where to stay in Zagreb: questions people ask
What's the best area to stay in Zagreb for a first visit?
The Lower Town, or around Ban Jelačić Square. Both put you within a short walk of the cathedral, Dolac market, the museums and the trams. The square is more central and dearer, and the Lower Town is calmer.
Is it better to stay in the Upper Town or the Lower Town?
The Lower Town for most visits: it is flat, has more rooms and more choice. The Upper Town is quieter and prettier at night but has few hotels, and the steps are hard with luggage. Both are only a short walk apart.
Is Tkalčićeva a good place to stay?
It is central, with a long row of cafes and bars, but it is loud on warm evenings and weekends. Ask for a back or high room and read recent reviews for noise.
Which area is best for families?
The Lower Town, with flat streets, parks and trams. Maksimir is also good if the park and the zoo are the plan, though you will take a tram into the center.
Where should I stay if I'm on a budget?
The station area or Trešnjevka. Rooms are cheaper than in the center, and a tram or a short walk gets you in. Look at the street on a map first.
Can you walk everywhere in Zagreb?
In the center, yes. The Upper Town, Ban Jelačić Square, the Lower Town and the station are all within twenty minutes of each other. Maksimir and Trešnjevka are a tram ride.
Is Zagreb safe to stay in?
Yes, it is generally a safe city. Keep a bag zipped in busy squares and markets, and prefer a hotel on a main street near the station.
How much is the tourist tax in Zagreb?
About 1.59 euros per person per night from April to September and about 1.86 euros from October to March, per the rates we found. It is often added at the hotel rather than in the online price.
