Things to do in Palermo: Norman churches, markets and the sea
Palermo is a big, noisy, faded and generous Sicilian city where Arab, Norman and Baroque buildings stand side by side. Three days cover the old center, the Norman monuments and the markets, with a half day by the sea. The one thing to know is that it is rough at the edges and rewarding up close, so go with a plan and a little patience.
The short answer
- First trip
- See the Palatine Chapel, the cathedral and Monreale, walk Via Maqueda and the Quattro Canti, and eat in the markets.
- Where to stay
- The area around Via Maqueda and the Quattro Canti for a first visit, or Politeama for a tidier base.
- How many days
- Two to three days for the city. Add a day for Monreale and Cefalù or Mondello.
- Best time to go
- April to June and September to October. July and August are very hot.
- Book ahead
- The Palatine Chapel in busy months, and any tour of the Capuchin Catacombs in summer.
- From the airport
- The airport is about 35 km west of the city. A bus and a train both reach the center in roughly an hour.
Where to stay in Palermo, in brief
Quattro Canti and Via Maqueda
a first trip on foot
The heart of the old city, with the main crossroads, churches and restaurants at your door. It is lively and loud, so ask for a room off the main street.
Kalsa
museums, palaces and a local feel
The old quarter by the sea, with Piazza Marina, Palazzo Abatellis and many small restaurants. It is quieter by day and livelier at night.
Capo and Teatro Massimo
the market and the opera house
A grid of narrow streets around the Capo market, close to the Teatro Massimo. Good value, and best in the daytime.
Politeama and Libertà
a calmer, more orderly base
A tidy 19th-century district with wide avenues and shops. The old center is a 15 to 25 minute walk away.
Things to do in Palermo
Palazzo dei Normanni and the Palatine Chapel
The Norman royal palace holds the Palatine Chapel, a small 12th-century chapel covered in gold mosaics. It is the best single sight in Palermo and can close for services.
a few days ahead in busy months
Palermo Cathedral
A large cathedral that mixes Norman, Gothic and neoclassical styles. The royal tombs and the roof terrace are the parts to see.
Quattro Canti and Piazza Pretoria
The Baroque crossroads at the center of the old city, a short walk from the fountain in Piazza Pretoria and the churches of La Martorana and San Cataldo.
La Martorana and San Cataldo
Two Norman-era churches in one square. La Martorana has Byzantine mosaics, and San Cataldo has three red domes.
Ballarò, Capo and Vucciria markets
The historic street markets, loud and crowded, with stalls of fish, produce and fried food. Go in the morning, and see the Palermo food guide for what to eat.
Teatro Massimo
One of Europe's largest opera houses, which you can tour on most days.
Capuchin Catacombs
A convent crypt where thousands of preserved bodies line the corridors. It is unsettling and historically interesting, and not for everyone.
Monreale Cathedral
A Norman cathedral on the hill above the city, with one of the largest mosaic cycles in Europe. Reach it by bus in about 30 to 40 minutes.
Palazzo Abatellis and the Kalsa
A 15th-century palace that holds the regional gallery, with the Triumph of Death fresco. The Kalsa around it has quiet squares and small bars.
Mondello beach
The city's sandy beach, about 30 minutes north by bus. Crowded in summer, quiet outside it.
What to book before you go
These sell out. Most of the rest of Palermo can be decided on the day.
Every tour and ticket in Palermo, and which to pick- Palatine Chapel and the royal apartmentsa few days ahead in busy months
Visitor numbers are limited, and the chapel can close for services or events.
- Capuchin Catacombs, if you are going in summera day or two ahead
Queues can be long in the middle of the day.
What to skip in Palermo
- Driving in the center
Limited traffic zones, narrow streets and chaotic parking make it hard. Walk, and take a taxi or a bus for longer trips.
- Restaurants with picture menus near the cathedral and Quattro Canti
They are priced for tourists and not worth it. Eat in the markets or in the trattorias a few streets away.
- A day trip squeezed into half a day
Monreale and Cefalù each need a half day at least. Pick one.
Best time to visit Palermo
April to June and September to October are best, with warm weather and easy sightseeing. The sea is warm enough to swim from June.
July and August are very hot, often above 30 degrees, and the city empties around mid August. Winter is mild and rainy, with the fewest visitors.
- From Palermo airportThe airport is at Punta Raisi, about 35 km west of the city. A bus runs to the central station in roughly 50 minutes, and a train in about an hour. Taxis charge fixed fares by zone.
- On footThe old center is walkable, but the pavements are uneven and the traffic is heavy. Cross with care.
- Buses and taxisBuses cover the whole city, and Monreale and Mondello are reached by city bus. Taxis are useful at night. Use only licensed white taxis.
- Trains to CefalùRegional trains run from Palermo Centrale to Cefalù in roughly 45 minutes to an hour.
Palermo in three days
- Day 1
The Quattro Canti, La Martorana and San Cataldo, the cathedral, then dinner in the Kalsa.
- Day 2
The Palatine Chapel in the morning, a walk through Ballarò market, the Capuchin Catacombs, and an evening drink at the Teatro Massimo.
- Day 3
Monreale in the morning, then Mondello beach or Palazzo Abatellis in the afternoon.
Day trips from Palermo
- MonrealeA cathedral with Norman mosaics on a hill above the city, about 30 to 40 minutes by bus.
- CefalùA seaside town with a Norman cathedral and a beach, about 45 minutes to an hour by train.
- MondelloA sandy beach on the north coast, about 30 minutes by bus.
Palermo: questions people ask
How many days do you need in Palermo?
Two days cover the main sights. Three adds Monreale and a slower pace, and four allows a trip to Cefalù or Mondello.
Is Palermo safe for tourists?
Most visitors have no trouble in the main areas. Watch for pickpockets in the markets and crowded streets, keep your bag closed, and take care on dark streets at night.
Is Palermo worth visiting?
Yes, for the Norman mosaics, the markets and the food. It suits travelers who like a city with texture over one with polish.
What is the best time to visit Palermo?
April to June and September to October. July and August are very hot.
Can you walk around Palermo?
The old center is walkable. The streets are busy with scooters and traffic, and some pavements are narrow.
Is Palermo good for a short city break?
Yes. Three days cover the center, the Norman monuments and the markets, and flights from many European cities are short.
How do I get from Palermo airport to the city?
By bus in roughly 50 minutes, by train in about an hour, or by taxi at a fixed fare by zone.