Lyon travel guide: Vieux Lyon, Fourvière and long lunches
Lyon sits between two rivers and two hills, and two days cover most of it. Walk the old town, climb to the Basilica of Fourvière, cross the Presqu'île and eat very well. Hardly anything needs booking, but good restaurants fill at weekends, so reserve dinner a few days ahead.
The short answer
- First trip
- Stay on the Presqu'île, give it two or three days, and book dinner for each evening.
- Where to stay
- The Presqu'île for a central base, Vieux Lyon for atmosphere, Croix-Rousse for a local feel.
- How many days
- Two days covers the old town, the hills and the museums. Three adds the Beaujolais or a slow second morning.
- Best time to go
- April to June and September to October are mild. July and August are hot, and some restaurants close in August.
- Book ahead
- Dinner at the better restaurants, and the Festival of Lights in December, when hotels fill.
- From the airport
- Lyon-Saint-Exupéry airport has the Rhônexpress tram to Part-Dieu station in about 30 minutes.
Where to stay in Lyon, in brief
Presqu'île
a central base for walking
The peninsula between the Rhône and the Saône, with shops, squares and the metro. Choose the streets near Place Bellecour or Cordeliers for quieter nights.
Vieux Lyon
atmosphere and Renaissance streets
Narrow, cobbled streets at the foot of the Fourvière hill. It is beautiful but busy and noisy at weekends.
Croix-Rousse
a local feel and cheaper meals
A hillside neighborhood of silk-workers' houses, with a market and small restaurants. A steep walk back at night.
Part-Dieu
trains and practical stays
Business hotels near the main station, convenient but not charming. Fine for an early train.
Things to do in Lyon
Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière
Take the funicular up for the view over the city. The inside is richly decorated.
Vieux Lyon and the traboules
Walk the covered passageways between streets in the old town. Some are open to visitors.
Place Bellecour and the Presqu'île
One of the largest squares in Europe, with shops on the streets around it.
Musée des Beaux-Arts
A large fine arts museum in a former abbey, with a calm garden.
a few days ahead for exhibitions
Parc de la Tête d'Or
A big city park with a lake and a zoo. Free and good for a morning walk.
Musée des Confluences
A striking science and anthropology museum where the rivers meet.
a few days ahead
Croix-Rousse and its murals
Walk the slopes and the Mur des Canuts, a huge painted wall.
Roman theaters of Fourvière
Ancient theaters on the hill, and the Lugdunum museum beside them.
What to book before you go
These sell out. Most of the rest of Lyon can be decided on the day.
Every tour and ticket in Lyon, and which to pick- Dinner at a bouchona few days ahead at weekends
The best traditional restaurants have few tables.
- Festival of Lights (December)2 to 3 months ahead
Hotels fill around 8 December.
What to skip in Lyon
- Tourist bouchons on Rue Saint-Jean
Many are overpriced and aimed at groups. Choose a bouchon with a real label or book at a known place.
- Over-planning the Beaujolais
It is a pleasant half day, but a wine tour needs a car or a guide. Skip it if time is short.
Best time to visit Lyon
April to June and September to October are the most comfortable, with mild weather and long days. Autumn is also the season for chestnuts and wine.
July and August are hot, and some restaurants close for part of August. December has the Festival of Lights, with beautiful nights and crowded hotels.
- From Lyon-Saint-Exupéry airportThe Rhônexpress tram runs to Part-Dieu in about 30 minutes.
- Metro, tram and funicularFour metro lines, trams and two funiculars serve the center. Buy a day ticket if you plan several rides.
- Vélo'v bikesPublic bikes are available across the city and are handy along the rivers.
- On footMost of the Presqu'île and Vieux Lyon are walkable.
Lyon in three days
- Day 1
Fourvière by funicular in the morning, then Vieux Lyon and a traboule walk. Lunch in a bouchon and an evening stroll on the Presqu'île.
- Day 2
Croix-Rousse market and murals, the Musée des Beaux-Arts after lunch, then dinner near Place Bellecour.
Day trips from Lyon
- BeaujolaisAbout 45 minutes by car or train to villages and vineyards. A good half-day with tastings.
- PérougesAbout 40 minutes by car. A well-preserved medieval village.
- AnnecyAbout 2 hours by train. A lake town and old canals, better as a longer stop.
Lyon: questions people ask
How many days do you need in Lyon?
Two days is enough for the main sights and a few good meals. Three days is relaxed.
Where should I stay in Lyon?
The Presqu'île is the most central. Vieux Lyon has more atmosphere but is busy at night.
What is Lyon best known for?
Food. It is often called the food capital of France, with traditional restaurants called bouchons.
What is the best time to visit Lyon?
April to June and September to October. December is good for the Festival of Lights.
How do I get from Lyon airport to the center?
The Rhônexpress tram runs to Part-Dieu station in about 30 minutes.
Is Lyon worth visiting?
Yes, particularly for food and the old town, and as a base for the Beaujolais and the Alps.