Venice travel guide: the back streets, the islands and the quiet hours
Venice has no cars, so every plan starts on foot or on a water bus. The best of the city is in the back streets and the islands, not around St Mark's at midday. Stay a night if you can, as the city belongs to residents once the day trippers leave.
The short answer
- First trip
- Walk the back streets, take Vaporetto line 1 along the Grand Canal, and visit one island.
- Where to stay
- Cannaregio and Dorsoduro for quiet, San Marco only if you want to be at the center.
- How many days
- Two days covers St Mark's, the Grand Canal and a lagoon island. A third lets you slow down.
- Best time to go
- March to May and September to November. Winter has fog and acqua alta.
- Book ahead
- St Mark's Basilica skip-the-line slots and the Doge's Palace, a week or two ahead in season.
- From the airport
- Marco Polo Airport is about 30 minutes by Alilaguna boat, or a bus to Piazzale Roma.
Where to stay in Venice, in brief
Cannaregio
quiet streets and local restaurants
Near the station, with canals, the old Jewish Ghetto and bacari. It is the most residential area, and the walk to St Mark's is about 25 minutes.
Dorsoduro
art and a university feel
Home to the Accademia and Peggy Guggenheim, with students and cafés. Good for evenings on the Zattere waterfront.
San Marco
being near the main sights
Next to the basilica and the Doge's Palace, at the cost of crowds and higher prices.
Castello
quieter lanes near the Biennale gardens
East of San Marco, with fewer visitors and a relaxed local feel.
Things to do in Venice
St Mark's Basilica
A Byzantine church with gold mosaics. Book a timed slot, and dress to cover shoulders and knees.
1 to 2 weeks ahead in season
Doge's Palace
The seat of the Venetian republic, with grand rooms and the Bridge of Sighs. Allow two hours.
1 to 2 weeks ahead in season
Grand Canal by vaporetto
Take line 1 from Piazzale Roma to San Marco for a cheap tour of the palaces. Sit at the front if you can.
Rialto Bridge and market
The oldest bridge on the Grand Canal. Visit the market in the morning, before the crowds arrive.
Gallerie dell'Accademia
The best collection of Venetian painting, from Bellini to Tintoretto. Allow two hours.
a few days ahead in season
Murano, Burano and Torcello
Three islands by vaporetto. Murano has glass, Burano has colored houses and lace, and Torcello has a quiet Byzantine church.
Cannaregio and the Ghetto
Walk the canals and the old Jewish Ghetto, then stop at a bacaro for cicchetti. The best way to see residents' Venice.
What to book before you go
These sell out. Most of the rest of Venice can be decided on the day.
Every tour and ticket in Venice, and which to pick- St Mark's Basilica1 to 2 weeks ahead in season
The skip-the-line slot saves a long queue in the sun.
- Doge's Palace1 to 2 weeks ahead in season
Timed tickets avoid the queue, and the palace is the most visited sight.
What to skip in Venice
- A gondola ride at midday
It is expensive and crowded, and the canals near San Marco are busy. Take the traghetto across the Grand Canal for a few euros.
- Restaurants on St Mark's Square
Prices are high and the food is poor. Walk five minutes into Castello or Cannaregio.
Best time to visit Venice
March to May and September to November are the best months, with mild weather and fewer people. The city is busiest from June to August.
Winter is quiet, with fog and occasional high water. A day-visitor fee applies on some dates, so check the official calendar before you go.
- From Marco Polo AirportAlilaguna boats take about 70 minutes, and the bus to Piazzale Roma takes 20 minutes. A water taxi is quicker and costs much more.
- VaporettoWater buses run on the Grand Canal and to the islands. Buy a 24 or 48 hour ticket, and validate it before you board.
- On footMost of Venice is walkable in about 40 minutes end to end. Follow the yellow signs and expect to get lost, which is part of it.
Venice in two days
- Day 1
St Mark's Basilica and the Doge's Palace in the morning, a vaporetto along the Grand Canal, and cicchetti in Cannaregio in the evening.
- Day 2
The Rialto market, the Accademia, then a boat to Murano and Burano in the afternoon.
Day trips from Venice
- PaduaAbout 30 minutes by train. See the Scrovegni Chapel with Giotto's frescoes, which needs a timed ticket.
- VeronaAbout 75 minutes by fast train. It has a Roman arena, old squares and good wine.
Venice: questions people ask
How many days do you need in Venice?
Two days is enough for the main sights and one island. Stay a night if you can, as the city is quieter in the evening.
Where is the best area to stay in Venice?
Cannaregio and Dorsoduro are the quietest and the most local. San Marco is the most central and the most crowded.
Is Venice worth visiting?
Yes, if you walk the back streets and avoid the middle of the day. The city is best early and late.
Do I have to pay to visit Venice?
A day-visitor fee applies on selected dates for people who are not staying overnight. Check the official site for the calendar.
When is the best time to visit Venice?
April, May, September and October offer mild weather and fewer people than the summer.