Poland travel guide: where to go and how to get around
Poland suits a first trip because the cities are close, the trains are good and the money goes a long way. Kraków is the old royal city, Gdańsk the Baltic port and Warsaw the rebuilt capital. A week covers all three. The one thing to know is that the distances are bigger than they look, so plan the order before you book.
The short answer
- First trip
- Start in Kraków, take the train north to Warsaw, then on to Gdańsk. Fly in and out of different cities if you can.
- How long
- Seven days covers the three cities. Five works with Kraków and Warsaw only. Add days for the mountains or the lakes.
- Best time to go
- May to June and September for mild weather. December for Christmas markets. Winters are cold, summers warm.
- Getting around
- Trains between the big cities, run mostly by PKP Intercity. Buses and trams inside them.
- Money
- The złoty (zł), not the euro. Cards are taken almost everywhere, including small shops and cafes.
- Book ahead
- Auschwitz-Birkenau visits and the Wieliczka Salt Mine near Kraków, and express train seats in summer.
Best cities to visit in Poland
Kraków
A huge market square, a castle on a hill and a Jewish quarter full of cafes. The first stop for most visitors and the best base for Auschwitz and the salt mine.
Give it 3 to 4 days
Gdańsk
A Baltic port of tall merchant houses and canals, with beaches and the old shipyards nearby. It suits history, seafood and a slower pace.
Give it 2 to 3 days
Warsaw
The capital, rebuilt after the Second World War, with serious museums, parks and a lively restaurant scene. It suits history and a busy city break.
Give it 2 to 3 days
Beyond the cities
The Tatra Mountains and Zakopane
Poland's high mountains and the lake of Morskie Oko, about two hours south of Kraków by bus or train. Good for walking from late spring to autumn and for skiing in winter.
Wrocław and Poznań
Two large cities with their own market squares, each a few hours from Warsaw or Kraków by train. Both reward a night or two if you have the time.
The Masurian lakes
A region of lakes and forest in the north-east, best by car in summer for sailing, kayaking and quiet villages.
Toruń
A brick medieval town on the Vistula, known for gingerbread. It is roughly two to three hours by train from Warsaw or Gdańsk.
Poland itineraries
- Five days: Kraków and Warsaw
Three nights in Kraków, with a day for Auschwitz or the salt mine. Take the fast train to Warsaw, which takes about two and a half hours, for two nights. It works well with a flight into one city and out of the other.
- Seven days: Kraków, Warsaw, Gdańsk
Three nights in Kraków, two in Warsaw and two in Gdańsk. Each move is a train of about three hours, so travel in the morning. This is the route most first trips take.
- Ten days: add the mountains
Do the seven day route, then spend three nights in the Tatras around Zakopane before or after Kraków. Go in September for clear walking days or January for snow.
Best time to visit Poland
May, June and September are the easiest months: mild, long days and fewer crowds than July and August. Summer is warm and the Baltic coast is busiest then. Check the forecast in the mountains, where weather changes fast.
Winter is cold and dark early, but the Christmas markets in December are good, and skiing around Zakopane runs from December to March. Most museums and sights stay open through the year.
How to get around Poland
- TrainsPKP Intercity runs the fast trains between the big cities, and you can buy tickets online or at the station. Fast services are comfortable and take about three hours between Kraków and Warsaw or Warsaw and Gdańsk. Seat reservations are compulsory on the fastest trains, so book ahead in summer.
- Regional trains and busesRegional operators and buses reach smaller towns and the mountains. Buses are often quicker than trains for Zakopane and for day trips.
- FlyingKraków, Warsaw and Gdańsk all have international airports. Flying between them is rarely worth it, as the train is about as fast door to door.
- DrivingA car helps for the lakes and the mountains, less so for the cities, where parking is awkward. Roads between the big cities are good and some motorways are tolled.
What to book before you go
These are the ones that sell out across Poland. Each city guide has its own list.
- Auschwitz-Birkenauseveral weeks ahead, longer in summer
Entry is by timed ticket, and the most popular guided slots sell out.
- Wieliczka Salt Minea week or more ahead
Tours run on timed slots and fill in the high season.
- Express train seatsa week or two ahead in summer
Seats are reserved on the fastest services, and tickets go on sale 30 days before travel.
Money, tipping and practical things
- CurrencyThe złoty (zł), divided into 100 groszy. Poland is in the EU but does not use the euro.
- Cards and cashContactless cards and phones work almost everywhere, from supermarkets to market stalls. Carry a little cash for toilets and some small stalls.
- TippingAround 10 percent in a sit-down restaurant if service was good, often by rounding up. Check whether a service charge is already on the bill.
- Tourist taxesPoland has a local fee, set by each municipality, that applies in places with a holiday or spa character, such as resorts. It is usually small. Ask your hotel what applies.
- EntryNon-EU visitors are registered at the border by the EU's Entry/Exit System. Whether you need a visa, and an ETIAS travel authorization once it starts, depends on your passport: check the EU's official site, travel-europe.europa.eu, before you book.
- PlugsType C and E, 230V. Most European plugs fit.
What to skip in Poland
- Trying to see everything in a week
The cities are three hours apart. Pick two or three and stay long enough to enjoy them.
- Auschwitz as a rushed add-on
It takes most of a day and is heavy going. Book a proper visit, or leave it for another trip.
- Changing money at airports and kiosks
Rates are poor. Use a card or a bank cash machine, and choose zł when asked which currency to pay in.
Poland: questions people ask
How many days do you need in Poland?
Seven days covers Kraków, Warsaw and Gdańsk without rushing. Five days works for two cities. Add three or four days for the Tatra Mountains or another region.
What are the best places to visit in Poland?
Kraków, Gdańsk and Warsaw are the usual first three. After them come the Tatra Mountains and Zakopane, Wrocław, Poznań, Toruń and the Masurian lakes.
Is Poland expensive?
Generally cheaper than Western Europe for food, drink and local transport. Hotels in Kraków and Warsaw rise in summer and at Christmas.
Can you use euros in Poland?
Not normally. Poland uses the złoty, and you will get a poor rate if you pay in euros. Pay by card in zł.
How do you travel between Polish cities?
By train, mostly on PKP Intercity. Fast trains take about three hours between Kraków, Warsaw and Gdańsk. Buses are useful for the mountains and smaller towns.
What is the best month to visit Poland?
May, June and September for mild weather and fewer crowds. December suits Christmas markets and cold-weather trips.
Do you need to book Auschwitz in advance?
Yes. Entry is by timed ticket, and the popular slots, especially guided visits in summer, sell out weeks ahead. Book as soon as your dates are fixed.