Montenegro travel guide: Kotor, the coast and how to get around
Montenegro is a small country with a walled bay, a long Adriatic coast and high mountains, all within a few hours of each other. It suits a short trip built around Kotor, with a boat, a beach or a day in the hills. The one thing to know is that there is little rail and the best places are far apart, so plan how you will move.
The short answer
- First trip
- Base yourself in Kotor for three or four nights, then add Perast, a beach town and a day in the mountains or on Lake Skadar.
- How long
- Four days covers Kotor and its bay. A week adds the coast and one inland trip.
- Best time to go
- May, June and September for warm days and fewer crowds. July and August are hot and busy on the coast.
- Getting around
- Buses link the coast and the capital. A car helps for the mountains and the lake, but roads are narrow and winding.
- Money
- The euro. Montenegro isn't in the EU, but it uses the euro. Cards are common in towns, and cash helps in villages.
- Book ahead
- Rooms in Kotor and Budva in summer, boat trips and any rental car.
Best cities to visit in Montenegro
Kotor
A medieval walled town under steep limestone mountains at the end of a fjord-like bay. It suits couples, walkers and anyone who wants history, views and the sea in one place.
Give it 2 to 4 days
Beyond the cities
Perast
A quiet stone village on the Bay of Kotor with two small islands a short boat ride away. It is about 20 minutes from Kotor by car or local bus.
Budva and Sveti Stefan
Budva has the busiest beaches and nightlife on the coast, and Sveti Stefan is a small island village joined to the shore by a causeway. Budva is about 40 minutes from Kotor by road.
Durmitor National Park
Glacial lakes, pine forest, canyons and peaks in the north, good for walking in summer. It is a long drive from the coast, so plan a night or two rather than a day.
Lake Skadar
The largest lake in the Balkans, shared with Albania, with reed beds, birds and small villages. Boat trips leave from places such as Virpazar, about an hour and a half from Kotor by road.
Montenegro itineraries
- Four days: Kotor and the bay
Spend three nights in Kotor for the old town, the city walls and the bay. Use one day for Perast and a boat to the islands. Everything is close, so you can manage without a car.
- Seven days: the bay, the coast and Lake Skadar
Three nights in Kotor, two on the coast near Budva or Sveti Stefan, and two near Lake Skadar for a boat trip. Buses and taxis can do this, but a car makes it simpler.
- Ten days: coast and mountains
Four nights in Kotor, two on the central coast, one at Lake Skadar and three in Durmitor. The drive north is slow, so a hire car is the practical choice.
Best time to visit Montenegro
May, June and September are the best months for the coast. The sea is warm enough to swim from June, days are long and the towns are busy but not packed. July and August are hot and crowded, and rooms cost more.
Winter on the coast is mild, wet and quiet, with many seaside places closed. The mountains get snow from about December, so Durmitor is a ski area in winter and a walking area from June to September.
How to get around Montenegro
- BusesBuses are the main public transport, linking Kotor, Budva, Podgorica and the larger towns. Tickets are bought at bus stations or on board, and timetables thin out in the evening.
- TrainsMontenegro has few passenger trains. The main line runs from Bar on the coast through Podgorica to the north and into Serbia, but it doesn't serve Kotor or Budva, so most visitors don't use it.
- CarsA hire car is the easiest way to reach the lake and the mountains. Mountain roads are narrow and bendy, the coast road is slow in summer, and parking in old towns is limited.
- Taxis and boatsTaxis fill the gaps on the coast, and it is worth agreeing the fare before you set off. Small boats run from Perast to its islands and from Kotor on the bay.
- Crossing bordersDubrovnik in Croatia is about two hours from Kotor by road, and border queues add time in summer. Check what your car rental company allows before crossing.
What to book before you go
These are the ones that sell out across Montenegro. Each city guide has its own list.
- Rooms in Kotor and Budva1 to 3 months ahead in summer
Old-town rooms are few, and July and August sell out.
- A rental car2 to 4 weeks ahead
Cars are limited in peak season, and you need one for the mountains and the lake.
- Boat trips to Perast and Lake Skadara few days ahead
Small boats fill up in summer, and weather can change the plan.
Money, tipping and practical things
- CurrencyThe euro. Montenegro uses it but is not in the EU or the euro area.
- Cards and cashCards are widely taken in hotels, restaurants and shops in the towns. Carry some cash for villages, markets, small cafes and taxis.
- TippingService is not always included. Rounding up or leaving about 10 per cent in a restaurant is normal, but not required.
- Tourist taxesA small nightly tourist tax is set by each municipality. It is usually collected by your hotel or host, who also registers you with the authorities, so ask at check-in.
- EntryMontenegro is outside the EU and the Schengen area, with its own rules by passport: check the government's official site before you book.
- PlugsType C and Type F sockets at 230 volts. Most UK and US plugs need an adapter.
What to skip in Montenegro
- Doing the whole country in a few days
Distances look short on a map, but mountain roads are slow. Pick the bay and one other area, and leave the rest for another trip.
- Kotor at midday when cruise ships dock
The old town is at its most crowded at midday. Go early or in the evening, and climb the walls before the heat.
- Relying on trains
The railway misses the main tourist towns. Use buses or a car instead.
Montenegro: questions people ask
How many days do you need in Montenegro?
Four days is enough for Kotor, Perast and the bay. A week lets you add the central coast and Lake Skadar, and ten days gives time for Durmitor in the mountains.
What are the best places to visit in Montenegro?
Kotor and its bay come first, with Perast close by. Budva and Sveti Stefan on the coast, Lake Skadar and Durmitor National Park are the other popular choices.
Is Montenegro in the EU?
No. It is a candidate country, but it is outside the EU. It uses the euro, so you don't need to change money if you arrive with euros.
Which currency does Montenegro use?
The euro, even though the country isn't an EU member. Cards work in most towns, and cash is useful for villages and small cafes.
What is the best time to visit Montenegro?
May, June and September, for warm weather and fewer crowds. July and August are hot and busy, and winter is quiet on the coast.
Do you need a car in Montenegro?
Not for Kotor and the bay, where you can walk and use buses and taxis. A car helps a lot for Lake Skadar and the mountains.
Can you visit Montenegro from Dubrovnik?
Yes. Kotor is about two hours by road from Dubrovnik, and many people do it as a day trip or a night away. Allow extra time for the border in summer.