Bologna travel guide: porticoes, towers and the table
Bologna is a university city of red brick and 40 kilometers of covered porticoes, and it is the best place in Italy to eat. The sights are modest and the pace is local, which makes it ideal for a long weekend. Walk under the arcades, climb a tower, and plan every day around lunch.
The short answer
- First trip
- Walk the porticoes, climb the Asinelli Tower, and eat tagliatelle al ragù.
- Where to stay
- The historic center near Piazza Maggiore, or the university quarter for a younger feel.
- How many days
- Two days covers the sights and the food. Add a third for day trips.
- Best time to go
- April to June and September to October. July and August are hot.
- Book ahead
- Towers climbs, the San Luca portico walk is free. Book restaurants for dinner.
- From the airport
- Bologna Airport is 20 minutes from the center by the Marconi Express and a short walk.
Where to stay in Bologna, in brief
Historic center, near Piazza Maggiore
first visits
The main sights, shops and restaurants are within ten minutes on foot. It is busy at weekends and in the evening.
The university quarter
bars, students and a lively evening
North of the center, with cheaper places to eat and drink. It can be noisy at night.
Near the central station
train connections
Convenient for Florence, Venice and Milan, about 20 minutes on foot from the main square.
Things to do in Bologna
Piazza Maggiore and Neptune's Fountain
The main square, with the Basilica of San Petronio and the Palazzo Comunale. A good place to start.
Asinelli Tower
A leaning medieval tower with 498 steps and views over the red roofs. Climbing needs a timed ticket.
a few days ahead in season
Basilica of San Petronio
A huge Gothic church that was never finished, with a sundial in the floor. Free to enter.
Portico of San Luca
A 3.8 kilometer covered walkway with 666 arches up to a hilltop sanctuary. Go in the morning, and take the walk, not the bus.
Archiginnasio and the Anatomical Theatre
The old university, with a carved wooden lecture hall. Small and unusual.
Quadrilatero
A medieval market district with food shops and stalls, close to the main square. Go in the morning and before lunch.
Santo Stefano
A complex of seven linked churches in a quiet square, with a cloister. A calm stop.
What to book before you go
These sell out. Most of the rest of Bologna can be decided on the day.
Every tour and ticket in Bologna, and which to pick- Asinelli Tower climba few days ahead in season
Timed tickets are limited, and the climb is the best view in the city.
- Dinner at a popular osteriaa few days ahead
The best small places fill early, especially on weekends.
What to skip in Bologna
- Spaghetti bolognese
The dish does not exist in Bologna. Order tagliatelle al ragù, which is the local version.
- Restaurants on Piazza Maggiore
They are expensive and serve food for passing visitors. Walk into the lanes of the Quadrilatero instead.
Best time to visit Bologna
April to June and September to October are the best months, with mild weather and a lively city. The porticoes make rain a minor problem all year.
July and August are hot and many locals leave, and some restaurants close. Winter is cold and foggy, with a quiet, local feel.
- From Bologna AirportThe Marconi Express train takes about seven minutes to the central station. Buses and taxis also run.
- On footThe old city is small and flat, with covered arcades. Most sights are within 20 minutes of each other.
- TrainsFast trains reach Florence in about 40 minutes, Milan in about an hour, and Venice in about 90 minutes.
Bologna in two days
- Day 1
Piazza Maggiore, San Petronio, the Quadrilatero for lunch, then climb the Asinelli Tower. Dinner at an osteria.
- Day 2
Santo Stefano, the Archiginnasio, and the walk up the San Luca portico in the afternoon.
Day trips from Bologna
- ModenaAbout 30 minutes by train. Visit the cathedral and try balsamic vinegar and local cheese.
- RavennaAbout 75 minutes by train, with Byzantine mosaics that are a World Heritage site.
Bologna: questions people ask
How many days do you need in Bologna?
Two days is enough for the sights and the food. A third day makes room for Modena or Ravenna.
Is Bologna worth visiting?
Yes, especially for food. It is a walkable city with a friendly local feel and fewer crowds than Florence.
Where should I stay in Bologna?
The historic center near Piazza Maggiore is the easiest. The university quarter suits a younger crowd.
Why is Bologna called La Grassa?
The nickname means the fat one, and refers to the rich food of the city.