Dublin travel guide: Georgian squares, pubs and the Book of Kells
Dublin is a small capital of Georgian squares, old pubs, literary history and a river that splits it in two. Three days cover the main sights at an easy pace. The one thing to know is booking: the Book of Kells and the Guinness Storehouse both sell timed tickets that fill up in summer.
The short answer
- First trip
- Stay south of the Liffey near St Stephen's Green, see Trinity College and the Guinness Storehouse, and spend the evenings in pubs with live music.
- Where to stay
- St Stephen's Green and Grafton Street for sights, Temple Bar for nightlife, Stoneybatter for a local base.
- How many days
- Two days for the center. Three adds a coast trip, and four adds the Wicklow hills.
- Best time to go
- May to September for the longest days. Spring and early autumn are quieter.
- Book ahead
- The Book of Kells, the Guinness Storehouse and Kilmainham Gaol.
- From the airport
- Dublin airport is about 10 km north of the center. Buses reach the center in roughly 30 to 45 minutes, depending on traffic.
Where to stay in Dublin, in brief
St Stephen's Green and Grafton Street
first-timers and shopping
The Georgian heart of the south side, with Trinity College, the park and plenty of restaurants within ten minutes on foot. It suits a first visit. Rooms are among the dearest in the city.
Temple Bar
nightlife and a short walk to everything
The cobbled quarter by the river, central for sights and full of pubs. It is loud late at night, so ask for a room away from the street.
Smithfield and Stoneybatter
a local base on the north side
A quieter area with independent cafes, local pubs and the Jameson distillery nearby. The center is a 15 to 25 minute walk, or a short tram ride.
Ballsbridge and Grand Canal Dock
quiet streets and modern hotels
South east of the center, with calmer streets and good transport links. Fewer pubs and less atmosphere, but easy for a short break.
Things to do in Dublin
Trinity College and the Book of Kells
A medieval illuminated manuscript in the college's Old Library, with the Long Room beyond it. Go early or late in the day.
a few days ahead, weeks in summer
Guinness Storehouse
The brewery's visitor center at St James's Gate, ending with a pint in the Gravity Bar.
a few days ahead, weeks in summer
Kilmainham Gaol
A former prison central to Irish history, visited on a guided tour. The tour is the only way in.
a week or more ahead in summer
St Stephen's Green
A Victorian park in the middle of the Georgian south side. A good place for a lunch break.
National Museum of Ireland, Archaeology
Gold, Viking finds and the bog bodies, in a building on Kildare Street. Entry is free.
Dublin Castle and Christ Church Cathedral
Two medieval landmarks within a few minutes of each other. The castle's state rooms are visited by tour.
Phoenix Park
One of Europe's largest city parks, with wild deer and the zoo. Reach it by tram and a short walk.
A traditional music session
Live folk music in a pub such as The Cobblestone in Smithfield. Arrive early for a seat.
The Ha'penny Bridge and the Liffey
A short walk along the quays crosses the cast iron footbridge, with views along the river.
What to book before you go
These sell out. Most of the rest of Dublin can be decided on the day.
Every tour and ticket in Dublin, and which to pick- Book of Kells ticketsa few days to weeks ahead
Timed entry fills up in summer, and the queue on the day can be long.
- Guinness Storehouse ticketsa few days to weeks ahead
Slots sell out on weekends and in summer.
- Kilmainham Gaol toura week or more ahead
Entry is by guided tour only and places run out.
What to skip in Dublin
- Eating in Temple Bar's tourist restaurants
Many are priced for visitors and serve ordinary food. Walk ten minutes to a street off Dame Street or Capel Street.
- Pubs with a band every night on the busiest street
The music can be loud and staged. For a proper session, pick a pub known for its weekly music and arrive early.
Best time to visit Dublin
May to September has the longest days and the best chance of dry weather. Evenings stay light until late in June and July, which suits a long walk and a pint.
Spring and early autumn are quieter. Winter is mild but wet and short on daylight, though the pubs are at their best. Rain can arrive in any month, so pack a waterproof.
- From Dublin airportBuses and taxis run to the center in roughly 30 to 45 minutes, depending on the traffic. Check the airport's site for current services.
- Luas trams, Dart trains and busesTwo Luas tram lines cross the center, and the Dart train runs along the coast. A Leap card covers all three.
- On footThe center is compact. Trinity College to the Guinness Storehouse is a walk of about 30 minutes.
Dublin in three days
- Day 1
Trinity College and the Book of Kells, Grafton Street, St Stephen's Green and a pub with music in the evening.
- Day 2
The Guinness Storehouse in the morning, Kilmainham Gaol after lunch and dinner in the south city center.
- Day 3
Dublin Castle, Christ Church Cathedral and the National Museum, then a Dart train to Howth for the sea.
Day trips from Dublin
- HowthA fishing village with a cliff walk, reached by Dart train in about 30 minutes.
- Wicklow Mountains and GlendaloughHills and an early monastic site, about an hour south by car or tour.
- NewgrangeA prehistoric tomb in the Boyne Valley, about an hour north. Visits are by guided tour from the visitor center.
Dublin: questions people ask
How many days do you need in Dublin?
Two days cover the center, and three add a trip to the coast or the hills. Four is comfortable if you want a slower pace.
Where should I stay in Dublin?
St Stephen's Green or Grafton Street for sights, Temple Bar for nightlife and Stoneybatter for a local base.
Is Dublin expensive?
Moderate to pricey for rooms and restaurants. Many museums are free and public transport is reasonable.
What is the best time to visit Dublin?
May to September, with spring and early autumn quieter and cooler.
Is Dublin easy to get around?
Yes. The center is walkable, and trams, buses and the Dart cover the rest.
Is Dublin safe for tourists?
Generally yes. As in any capital, watch your bag in crowds and around the busiest streets at night.